Utah Recap

The four hour drive north through the Mojave ends with a long, straight descent into a different world. Las Vegas, its sleek glass and marble monoliths stretching toward the sky, beckons ahead. Throwaway imitations of the world’s great cities lie side-by-side along the Strip in an attempt at grandeur and elegance. Disneyland for the 21+ crowd. Onward through Sin City we drove, however, resisting the urge to stop and indulge. Because we knew we’d be back.

The last gambling oasis on the Arizona/Nevada state line is a small town called Mesquite, NV, home to a few casinos and a few golf courses. The Virgin River, a tributary of the mighty Colorado, runs through this town. Our route going forward would follow the river almost to its source, high above Zion Canyon. We took a quick break for gas and continued on into the dark desert. Only a few miles east of Mesquite, the highway enters the Virgin River Gorge, a deep canyon cut into sandstone cliffs by the Virgin River. Massive rock formations line the steep gorge as the road twists and turns high above the river. The new moon, however, ensured little visibility of any of this.

Soon enough, the lights of St. George appeared in the black, preceded shortly by a slightly underwhelming “Welcome to Utah” sign. At St. George, we cut across to the UT-9, a scenic route that heads directly through Zion National Park. The windy, two lane road guided us through the pitch black until we entered the town of Springdale, our first stop of the trip.

Springdale is actually located inside the canyon, it was just too dark for any of us to notice. When we got up in the morning, huge red sandstone cliffs stared down at us right outside of our hotel. After a rough, microwaved breakfast, we headed out to Zion National Park.

Our first stop was the Emerald Pools Trailhead. From here, three levels of pools are accessible via a system of hiking trails. The path starts with an easy uphill, along a wide, maintained trail. Parts of this trail were covered in ice and mud, making the easy incline a little sketchy. We ascended to the second emerald pool section, where water gathers before a final drop off a rock face into the lower pools. We took the trail to the third (and highest) pool, which is the real treat of the hike. The upper pool is nestled against the canyon walls, fed by a small crack in the rocks above, sending a fine, misty ribbon of water down below. Since the upper pool is pushed up against the rock wall, the area is shaded for most of the day. The cold allows for a healthy layering of ice where the water finally lands. The mist freezes on branches and rocks, forming small icicles on nearby tree branches. We took in the amazing view for a few minutes and followed the stream of water downhill to the lowest pools.

Our next stop was the Temple of Sinawava stop, at the far end of the canyon. This area, around the towering Angel’s Landing, is where the Virgin River enters Zion Canyon. As we walked further, we noticed the walls getting drastically closer together. The sheer cliff faces are immense, especially when looking straight up from beneath them. The paved Riverside Walk leads to the Narrows, following the river for a mile until the walls converge and the Narrows begin. With the water close to freezing and no sunlight, we had to stop, take in the view, and only imagine a summer trip into the Narrows.

From Sinawava, we took one final stop at Weeping Rock, which really is a huge, leaking rock formation. Water entering the rock from high above emerges below through small cracks, creating the illusion of rain. A short hike took us behind the falling drops, with perfect views of the lower canyon.

After a few hours back at the hotel, Brent and I decided to tackle one more quick hike. We walked through Springdale, into the park, and hooked up with the Watchman Trail, right near the park gates. We charged the trail, knowing we had limited time until the sun gave way to the night. The trail is a moderate incline, offering great looks at both the different sandstone formations that line the walls of Zion and the lower sections of Zion Canyon. About 30 minutes in, very close to the end of the trail, we hit a muddy stretch that just wasn’t worth slogging through. We took in the last sunset views of Springdale and the lower Zion area, then turned back.

We enjoyed a nice pizza dinner, complete with a cold pitcher of beer. Brewed locally too. Score.

The next morning we got up and had some breakfast at a local cafe. The breakfast burrito was kick-ass. We followed the UT-9 into the park, cutting across the eastern edge of the park. A series of switchbacks continues through a tunnel that cuts right through a cliff face. Emerging on the other side, about 1000 feet above Springdale, petrified sand dunes lay covered with snow. The scenic drive out the eastern gate exists on a much smaller scale, separated from the main Zion Canyon. Still, the snow and morning light on the rocks made the drive very nice.

We drove until the UT-9 meets with the UT-89, took it north, then headed east on UT-12. Endless fields of snow lined the highway through this section. Small towns flew past on our way to Bryce Canyon. Near the start of the UT-12, we passed through Red Canyon, a recreation area with rock spires resembling Big Thunder Mountain. Snow blanketed the area, a preview of what was to come at Bryce.

After checking in to our hotel near Ruby’s Inn, we drove the length of Bryce Canyon. The clear, cold air gave way to some amazing views. The anticipation built. The highest lookouts at Bryce were probably the main reason I wanted to take this trip. The views didn’t disappoint. Navajo Mountain, usually beyond visibility in the summer months, rose clearly more than 75 miles due southeast. From Rainbow and Yovimpa Point lookouts, more than 9000 feet up, we could see a vast, snow-covered landscape stretching for miles. The ability to sit at the end of a massive plateau, millions of years in the making, and stare for miles into a mostly untouched landscape is just one of those things. Words and pictures will never do it justice. I have never been able to see so many things, so far away, from one place. I sat for a few minutes taking it all in, then sat for a few more. Everything seems so trivial when millions of years of the Earth’s history sits right in front of you. It’s certainly humbling.
We tackled some of the lookouts on our way back out of the park, stopping at the Natural Bridge, Agua Canyon, Farview Point, and a few others. We also stopped to take a look at the major amphitheaters near the front of the park. The serene beauty of snow glistening atop the hoodoos is something you can’t forget.

Back in town, we fixed up a budget meal (as in microwave), and prepared to revisit the park lookouts to see the stars. We were lucky enough to be there a day off the new moon, so roads were pitch black. The first stop we made was the lookout at Sunset Point. The lookout rests at a point hanging over Bryce Amphitheater, although that really didn’t matter as we could barely see anything below the horizon. Up above, the sky took a milky hue, with billions of stars emitting light from the depths of space. I have never seen the Milky Way the way I saw it that night. It was thicker than I’d ever seen before. I was actually having trouble finding constellations because the sky looked completely different than at home; the endless blanket of stars blending together across the sky. Orion was no longer just three stars in a line, and I could actually imagine how ancient stargazers could find the shape of a warrior watching us from up there. The philosophical discussions we shared are too much to type here, but it was an amazing sight to behold.

How could we, as tiny humans on a tiny rock in one galaxy among billions, think we have anything figured out? To assign one God to all of it just seems arrogant...

We woke early the next day to pick up some snowshoes and take a hike down into Bryce Amphitheater. We settled on the Queen’s Garden trail of Sunrise Point, connecting to the Navajo Loop, taking us down into the hoodoo mazes and up Wall Street. The snow was extremely deep, and for the most part untouched off the paths. Snowshoes allow a whole new dimension to hiking; staying on the “trail” is subjective when there really isn’t much of anything resembling one. Big hills of snow were laid out in all directions, just begging for someone to see what the view was like on top. After a few hours of running around, we finally made our way back up the Wall Street section, a narrow space between massive hoodoos. What during the summer is a steep switchback trail is in the winter a giant wall of snow. The hike up was tiring, but you really can’t complain with giant metal spikes attached to the bottoms of your feet. We emerged at Sunset Point and trekked across the rim back to Sunrise Point.

We rolled out of the Bryce Canyon area at midday and headed back toward Vegas.

Hell of a trip...can’t wait to do it again.

mere thoughts

The buzz of a great superbowl is still affecting my ability to type...

Gearing up for a road trip through Utah once again, this time to see Zion and Bryce glisten in fresh snowfall. I'm infinitely excited to take the drive through these two amazing parks, to see what so few ever experience, to breathe some of the cleanest air around and to sit beneath a milky-white display of stars as far as the eye can see. The Earth the way it always has been, natural and beautiful. Water and air, freeze and thaw, on a time line in which we are mere hiccups - a grand display that the most arrogant among us could only hope to hope to achieve. I look forward to immersing myself in something so sadly foreign - what should be in front of us, always. A reminder of 'why?'. The only answer to our deepest questions and the realization that we are because we are, not because we're supposed to be. Because any force that would decline intervention in our desire to destroy so openly yet rationally...well I only hope that something (one?) like that just doesn't exist.

Thoughts

Today is January 28th.

Every day seems important when I'm sitting in front of my computer.

Obama delivered his State of the Union address to Congress last night. It's interesting to see a mostly centrist address polarize the left and the right even more. Is it Obama's tactics? Is he attacking the right too much or not doing enough for the left? Or is it just the sad state of the Fox-News/Keith Olberman vitriol that is polarizing America itself, forcing elected leaders to respond to the radicals? One side says he isn't doing enough, the other says he's doing too much. I say just do it. If Obama is to live up to his Diane Sawyer interview (1 good term over 2 iffy ones), then forget the far right, just get something done. Losing the Mass seat isn't a cue to move right. Like the GOP would do, fight harder. They'll find something to hate no matter the concessions. Fuck, Obama is even too right-center as is. Last time the GOP lost seats at a midterm election with a Dem president, they fucking impeached his ass.

And how anyone can disagree with Americans (not just poor Americans either, because I NEED COVERAGE TOO) getting fair health coverage is beyond me. There couldn't be anything more selfish and sickening than refusing people's right to get taken care of when they're sick or injured. Choosing $ over quality of life is just totally bollocks.


From our home state...more than 700,000 signatures were delivered to election officials, well beyond the 400,000+ needed for a ballot initiative. Meaning pot legalization legislation will be on the ballot come November. Snap! I guess this is the true test. Has the City of LA just wasted weeks debating the dispensary issue? Figures.


JD Salinger passed away yesterday. Thank you, sir, for Holden Caulfield.


And the supreme court just failed in epic fashion. Obama even had to call them out in the State of the Union, in front of Congress, which never happens. Where do we stand when we allow corporations give endlessly to campaigns? Will Legislators now be allowed to wear NASCAR-style suits with corporate logos stuck all over them? Can they wear hats with company logos? Can they tattoo "HALLIBURTON" across their foreheads? Or will CEO's just follow these guys on the campaign trail? Scarier yet - many corporations aren't even based in the US. Foreign business will now have a powerful say in the most powerful government on the planet. And citing the First Amendment is just a slap in the face to the founding fathers. This country is FOR THE PEOPLE, BY THE PEOPLE.

Corporations are NOT people. American CEO's can still vote, just like the rest of us. And they really haven't had that difficult of a time getting their pawns in office anyway. We suffered through that shit for 8 long years.

The saddest thing? Most of us don't even realize how much power we've just lost.


And finally...


Update on Google Apple War:

RE: "Apple Unveils the Sadly Underwhelming iPad"

And then there was that suspicious lack of multitasking. Yes, a tablet computer wasn't shown running more than one app at a time. An oversight that couldn't possibly be considered "slight." But there was also a nice surprise. Although unmentioned by name, Google (GOOG) was featured prominently in the presentation -- both Google Maps and YouTube were given a test run. Though YouTube integration goes without saying -- there's a Safari browser, after all -- built-in Google Maps means there's still remnants of a partnership between the warring factions.


Pick a side.

green tech corridor

A departure from my usual rants...

but FYI, especially if you have a thing for Downtown.

So the CRA-LA and the Mayor are planning the "Green Tech Corridor" on the Eastern side of Downtown LA. More specifically, it's the area between Alameda and the LA River. The plan calls for sustainable businesses and research firms coming together in an environmentally friendly region, of course with some incentives from local government. I don't know much about it yet, but did hear a few words at a Little Tokyo Planning Meeting. Sounds promising...check the link below.

They say they'll be creating "green-collar" jobs. What a great marketing plan.

http://www.crala.org/internet-site/Projects/Central_Industrial/CleanTech.cfm

haiku

coachella announced

it looks amazing, again

but can't afford it

the central cal coast!

Driving along Highway 1 toward Monterey, you’re twisting and turning along the bluffs so often that you’re barely left with any time to think. The turns keep coming, forcing your attention to the black asphalt in the headlights, braking and accelerating, 25mph turn signs every 500 feet. Eyes drift to the amazing scenery outside, only to snap back in time to avoid oncoming semis and SUVs barreling along the narrow road. Once you stop and hop out of the car, however, it’s a completely different story. The cold breeze hits you quickly, somehow crisp and humid at the same time, blending the scent of the ocean and forests. It’s that Northern California Coastal air, the kind that hits you when running in Golden Gate Park on Saturday morning.

The Big Sur section of Highway 1, about an hour north of San Luis Obispo, is sparsely populated. Few signs of civilization rest along the road, never less than 5 miles apart. Gas costs almost twice as much as the cities, no doubt a product of the remoteness of the region. Big Sur, more a span of highway than any real town, is spread along 90 miles, occupying a narrow strip between coastal mountains and the Pacific Ocean. Cut off from the rest of California, this coastal mountain range
includes peaks higher than 5,000 feet above sea level.

The water smashes against the coast far below as towering redwoods sit high in the hills. White cliffs here are especially steep, starting far below the water, rising to incredible heights just a few thousand feet from the rocky beaches. Deep canyons cut into the shoreline, as small creeks feed the great blue Pacific Ocean. The road traverses these gorges on historic bridges, many of which were constructed almost a century ago (and are therefore pretty narrow).

It’s a sight to behold, especially when starting a hike in the early morning fog. The thick fog sits along the cliffs and blankets the churning ocean somewhere below. The hills to the east fade into the fog above, offering no hints of where you’re headed.

Arriving at the Kirk Creek Campground in the morning, we parked the car off the side of the road and decided to tackle the Vicente Flat Trail. The sign at the trailhead informed us that Vicente Flat was a 5 mile hike in, which seemed modest at the time. The trail followed a hill up into the thick fog, disappearing as it rose beyond visibility. We started up, and continued up, only catching glimpses of cliffs as we hiked right beneath them. After a tough, uphill climb in, we noticed a sign signifying our entering the Ventana Wilderness. “Wait, you mean we’re just entering the wilderness now?”

A steep climb along some narrow switchbacks eventually gives way to intervals of meadows and small redwood groves. As you ascend beyond the fog, you realize how far the blanket of haze extends out to sea. The entire ocean is invisible, covered in a white marine layer extending beyond the horizon. Looking north or south, you see the hills jutting in and out of the coastline, the fog pushing its way into the canyons.

We continued along the trail, consistently gaining elevation, in and out of inlets formed by creeks rushing west. After a few miles, we take a right turn along a larger canyon, with the huge Cone Peak looming across the steep gorge. The trail, at spots only a foot or two across, is cut right into the steep hillside, forcing you to choose between precariously balancing over the edge and avoiding poison oak hanging over the trail. The poison oak is avoidable; I think it’s more of a psychological thing, especially because of the name. The three of us actually survived without getting hit by any of it.

The path never gets any thinker until you reach the Vicente Flat campground, set near an underground creek and large, open redwood grove. The campsites nestled in this area are very cozy, under enormous redwoods and within earshot of the creek. The creek, which disappears underground to the east and pops up downstream further down the canyon, seems to be year-round. The flow was pretty strong…coming down into the flat, we genuinely thought the creek was about 3 times the size it really was. Either way, however, fresh water is a quick boil/treatment away.
We turned around here, after a quick break at the flat. The hike back out was odd, mostly since the hillside was now on our left. We had to get used to leaning left to avoid slipping off the ridiculously steep cliff below. Emerging from the canyon, we saw that the heat burned off a good chunk of the fog. A clear view to the ocean now had us wondering, “how high are we?” We found out later that the Vicente Flat Trail gains about 1,800 feet in elevation.

Feet aching, knees shot, we finally saw the car again and sprawled out on the cool grass for a half hour. Feeling adventurous, we drove further north, traversing all 90 miles of the Bug Sur coast. We stopped off at McWay Falls, which everyone says if the highlight of the region. I don’t even want to describe the falls…it’s something everyone should just check out for themselves. A mere 2 minutes from the road, it really doesn’t take too much effort…

The effort it takes to get here is far outweighed by the unique scenery and the miles of hiking trails, taking you to places that feel completely foreign. About the same drive time as LA to Vegas, The coast is a totally different experience, secluded, wild and serene. Fluffy beds and nice restaurants may be in shortage, but who can argue with waking up on a seaside bluff, cool breezes, and redwoods? And 90 miles of it? I’m always ready to see more.

adventures

So it's come to this...

...take a little restlessness, a little curiosity, some furlough days, and (a small amount of) initiative and you may find yourself on a rock fin on top of the world, perusing unique art in odd places, in a deep red-rock canyon in the Moab Desert, or overlooking the great California coastline in serenity, free to think on your own and (finally) take deep breaths. I want others to feel what I have felt, sitting 1,500 feet up or hiking through hoodoos; I think it's more inherently human than the cars we drive in or the offices we slog off to work in every morning. Humans are animals, and as much as we try to deny it, cover it with concrete, or drive through it, nature always continues on. We're products of a natural process, of billions of years of change, and yet we constitute less than a blink of an eye in the grand scheme of things. Our development as a species, as profound as we think it is, really isn't; we exist but won't last, and the Earth will get along perfectly well after we're gone. To think that we've figured anything out, in a few hundred years in contrast to the earth's hundreds of millions, is simply an act of arrogance and naivety, and besides, we're still in only one of billions of galaxies, orbiting one of billions of stars, sitting on a small percentage of one of billions of planets. Everything is and will continue to be; the human species, the sixth extinction of the earth, will end someday, and a seventh will come along.

That said, I'm absolutely proud to be an earthling, we really lucked out. And human ingenuity is something unique in the world...the things we create for ourselves are, more often than not, beautiful. Before we completely tear our world apart, at least some of us have given our cities and concrete jungles many reasons to shine. Sure we took the nicest, most forgiving natural environments out there and paved over them, but we still managed to create some neat things that are a testament to our ingenuity and creativity. It's not all bad everyone, and I encourage all to go find those places that take your breath away, natural or man-made. They're out there, and deserve a moment of your appreciation.

I made a promise to myself a few months back. About a year after returning to LA after a few years away at school, I started to feel a little stagnant. Tried the school thing again and it kinda sucked...got a great job, but still felt unfulfilled. I was older, however, and had a small income.

So on to the promise. I solemnly swore to explore my hometown, to take a look around and see what a tourist might see on his/her first visit to the Southwest corner of this great country. I realize that Angelinos are among the most privileged people around (it is, after all one of the few places where a pad 30 miles from the city center still costs $500k), and that there are tons of amazing things to see on an everyday basis. Throw in some weekend trips and so much is within reach. I surprised myself within the first month, and I finally know why Anthony Bourdain loves his show so much. Fucker, he has the life.

#1 Downtown Los Angeles

It seemed the logical place to start exploring, considering proximity, my office, and free parking. The anti-nature, sure, but I had to start somewhere. Plus, is there nothing more natural than the thousands of people moving back and forth through city streets like ants underground? The city is at once the furthest and closest thing to man in his natural state. We construct artificial towers of concrete and glass with manufactured pieces...yet is there anywhere many of us feel more at home?

Downtown LA is full of great shops, bars, and eats, for it's as much a big-city downtown as any other. Forget anyone that says LA's Downtown is lacking; like any other LA neighborhood, it has a flow that takes some time to get used to, but yields big rewards. I started with a leg up considering I'm there 4-5 times a week anyway, but from Little Tokyo, everything is accessible - the Old Bank District, the Arts District, Gallery Row, Civic Center, Financial District, Chinatown, Bunker Hill, and more.

Exploring Downtown is cake. Not only is the place accessible by the 10, 110, 101, and 5 freeways, multiple bus lines and three different metro rail lines converge here. Downtown even has its own internal bus line, the Dash, which costs all of a quarter to ride anywhere. Or walk..cause you'll never see or notice more than when you're aimlessly strolling.

Spend the day here and check out some of Historic Downtown's buildings, most of which have been here for more than a century. Despite the fact that most have been converted to lofts for lawyers and screenwriters, these buildings can still instill a sense of wonder and awe, especially for being constructed more than 100 years ago.

The Pacific Electric Building houses Cole's French Dips and two bars - The Varnish and the Association, swanky spots with good (albeit expensive) cocktails...

The Eastern Building, with its turquoise walls and giant clock...

But few are more spectacular than the Bradbury Building on Third Street. An unassuming building from the outside, the red brick building was constructed in 1893. It was renovated in the 90's and today looks amazing, at least from the inside.

There are tons of things happening in Downtown and the best way to take it all in would have to be the monthly Art Walk, which happens on the second Thursday of each month. Thousands take to the streets after work to enjoy drinks and the many galleries that now line the old financial district. I completely recommend checking out some local bars and eateries as well, from bacon donuts at Nickel Diner to ramen at Daikokuya, whiskey at Seven Grand to $3 Hoegaardens at Golden Gopher on Tuesdays. And there's always Wurstkuche and the famous Phillipes...

I could go on...but there really isn't a good way to explain. Just make the trip one of these days and see what's happening...it may be surprising.